Spending time in a controversial camp that’s blocking tar-sands pipelines


It’s his partner Erin’s birthday tonight, and so Ambrose Williams, a member of the Gitxsan nation, is cooking dinner. He’s preparing bear poutine pizza — shredded bear meat, homemade French fries, and cheese baked atop a made-from-scratch whole wheat crust. The result is amazing, particularly the bear meat, which is tender, smoky, and slightly sweet. Because it’s a special occasion, someone has ventured down into the work-in-progress root cellar to excavate a jar of spicy dill pickles made from cucumbers grown last summer in the Unist’ot’en Camp’s garden.

An enormous pot of water collected from the river warms on a wood-fired stove top, to be used for dishwashing and cooking. To the left of the stove, chopped firewood and kindling pile up in shelves that must be restocked every few days from the log heap just outside this main cabin. Beyond that, a screen on the wall displays the charge level…

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